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Monastero Trappiste
Just north of Rome, on the outskirts of Viterbo, is a community of about 40 Cistercian nuns who follow the Benedictine rule of Ora et Labora, Pray and Work. Their work, growing fruit and making jam, supports an AIDS clinic the nuns opened in Africa several years ago. It is truly a labor of love, and Paul Ferrari was most impressed by the simple joy with which the nuns make and present their products. He was also impressed with how good their fruit preserves were. Ripe, locally grown fruit is cooked down in small batches in the monastery kitchen. We were lucky enough to get a decent quantity of their small production, including their trademark green tomato jam.
Lazio
Lazio's pastoral countryside is less a region than it is a block of fertile farmland that surrounds Rome. In Lazio at least, all roads really do lead to Rome, the region's geographic, cultural and gastronomic center. The Romans seem to find sensuality in all things, and food is no exception. Here in the seat of the Vatican, the cuisine is strangely (or perhaps not so strangely) hedonistic and indulgent. Even more ironic is the baking and confectionary prowess fostered within the region's monasteries. While they are famous for their opulence, the Romans are equally adept at creating rich dishes from the simplest ingredients. Gnocchi di Semolino, a large dumpling made from just semolina flour, milk and eggs, is a prime example, as is Rome's well-known egg drop soup, Stracciatella. Throughout history, the best loved foods of Rome have been bread, cheese, olives, fresh vegetables, and pasta. The region's volcanic soil is ideal for vegetables, particularly artichokes. In spring and summer, the fields surrounding Rome burst with color. Spaghetti comes to the fore in Roman cooking, and it's often used with simple, coarse dressings. Carbonara, the international hit made with bacon, eggs, parmesan, and spaghetti, originated in Rome. Lazio is bordered by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west, so fresh fish, baccala, crustaceans and mollusks all figure prominently in the region's cooking. Salt is an important spice here, so much so that it takes a position of prominence on the table in a special rounded dish called a saliera. The most important cheese in this region's cuisine is highly salted Pecorino Romano, a sheep's milk cheese similar to parmigiano.
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